I can't find how to enable the line numbers, current line highlight, and other goodness in 13.10.

If you've removed indicator-appmenu to remove global menus then either
Reinstall
indicator-appmenuorrun this command (one long line):
gsettings set org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.xsettings overrides '@a{sv} {"Gtk/ShellShowsAppMenu":}' (If the above doesn't copy as a single line, this code box here will work).
If you've edited gedit.desktop to add an env to keep menus in their window then remove the env, typically env UBUNTU_MENUPROXY=.
As an aside: if one wanted the app menu present in a root nautilus browser then removing indicator-appmenu and running the above from a root prompt will achieve that.
Example:
sudo -i
gsettings set org.gnome.settings-daemon.plugins.xsettings overrides '@a{sv} {"Gtk/ShellShowsAppMenu": }'
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